Monday, December 26, 2011

How to Make a Solar Powered Car

!±8± How to Make a Solar Powered Car

These directions are for amateur builders who have never built a solar car before or those that have partial skill with building mini solar powered vehicles. These plans are only meant to guide new builders for their very first solar powered car.

Be creative and original when you create your solar powered car. Everyone involved in the creation of the vehicle should sketch up some ideas of the looks and functionality of the solar vehicle. Of the drawings you must also consider the efficiency of the design. It's unwise to have a heavy solar powered car. Your first car will be here are very simple, yet cost effective and very well made.

You must think about design of the solar car. Here are a few items of interest to go along with the design you come up with:Cost: You don't need to spend a fortune. Weight: Heavy solar vehicles will reduce speed and distance so keep your solar car light. Materials: If you can't find the exact material needed you can always improvise. Durability: Will your final products start to crumble under the pressure of distance and velocity? The track or runway: You don't need a track but you should consider using a smooth surface to run your vehicle on.
SAMPLE MATERIALS

- Solar cells and Panels
- 2 1.5V AA batteries
- Pulleys
- Gears
- Wheels
- Electric hobby motor
- Wire
- Elastics
- Fishing line
- Skewers or Chop Stix
- Metal coat hangers
- Straws
- Light-weight recyclable materials
- Alligator clip test leads
- Duct tape
- Corrugated cardboard

SOLAR PANELS

For your first try with you solar vehicle it's recommended to use two panels of solar cells. Each panel will consist of two cells. The panels will have leads through the ends of the panels for a direct circuit connection. The solar cells are extremely fragile so be sure to handle them with caution and care. It can be expensive to replace solar panels because of neglect of the material.

Do not cut the backing of the solar panels. If you do you can crack the cells and this will reduce efficiency of the panel. You want to squeeze every bit of energy from your panels so don't cut the backing.   The solar cells can be tested and is recommended that each cell have 0.5V

 HOBBY MOTOR

A standard DC hobby motor can be used to mount to the frame of your solar car. You can usually get a motor from a RC hoppy shop for around twenty bucks. The motors should be rated to 1.5-3 V

CONSTRUCTING THE SOLAR CAR

Think of the materials you would like to use for your first solar powered car. Remember you need to use lightweight materials.

Use recyclable material to construct your solar powered car. The lighter the frame and materials the better your car will utilize solar energy. After creating the framework for your solar vehicle you can mount the solar panels in a direction to maximize energy. This means you should have your panels directly face the sun. Next, connect the panels from the circuit leads to the hobby motor. 26 gauge wire will work just fine. Here's the tricky part. Connecting the motor to the wheels on your solar vehicle. Your pulleys must be installed exactly the same distance of each other or your car will veer left or right. Make sure that the pulleys are also lined up correctly. Precise installation of the pulley system will create the right amount of tension for the elastics or fishing line. If you have gears installed, you must consider the gear ratio, corresponding to the motor so you don't strip the internal gears of the motor. A smaller pulley/gear on the motor and a larger pulley/gear on the axle will give you the most performance durability. Mounting the wheels can be a daunting task. The wheels should be lubed up with graphite or WD-40. The wheels on your solar powered car should be squared up and not unevenly installed. The goal of mounting your wheels is to minimize wobble. 

Installing the solar panels to the car must be done with finesse. You do not want to crack or chip the panels. The solar panels must be tightly attached to the car so that they do not fall off during your first run. Don't forget to mount the solar panels horizontally facing the sun for maximum efficiency.


How to Make a Solar Powered Car

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Saturday, December 10, 2011

Sunforce 50048 60-Watt Solar Charging Kit

!±8± Sunforce 50048 60-Watt Solar Charging Kit

Brand : Sunforce | Rate : | Price : $299.00
Post Date : Dec 11, 2011 01:20:12 | Usually ships in 24 hours

The Sunforce 60-Watt Solar Charging Kit gives you several more reasons to love the sun. Perfect for cabins, recreational vehicles, remote power, back-up power, 12V battery charging and more, this kit comes with everything you need to start producing up to 60 watts/4 amps of clean, free power in all weather conditions. It is also a great choice for clean and silent operation of various electronics, like deer feeders and landscaping pumps. Made of durable ABS plastic and amorphous solar cells, the solar panels will charge in all daylight conditions, even on cloudy days. With built-in blocking diode technology, this charger kit is designed to protect against battery discharge at night. This kit includes: four 15W amorphous solar panels ,a PVC mounting frame, 7 -amp charge controller, 200 Watt inverter, and wiring/connection cables. The maximum temperature range is -40 to 176-degrees Fahrenheit. The Sunforce 60 Watt Solar Charging Kit is the ideal solution for providing the power you need, while helping you save money and protect the environment.

  • Amorphous solar charging kit provides up to 60 watts of clean, free, renewable power
  • Designed for RVs, cabins, homes, boats, back-up and remote power use
  • Weatherproof, durable solar panels can withstand impacts from hailstones travelling 50 miles-per-hour
  • Built-in blocking diode helps protect against battery discharge at night
  • Complete kit includes four 15W amorphous solar panels, a PVC mounting frame, a 7-amp charge controller, 200-watt inverter, and wiring/connection cables

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Sunday, December 4, 2011

Tripp Lite APS750 750W 12V DC to AC Inverter with Automatic Line-to-Battery 20-Amp Charger

!±8± Tripp Lite APS750 750W 12V DC to AC Inverter with Automatic Line-to-Battery 20-Amp Charger

Brand : Tripp Lite | Rate : | Price : $295.77
Post Date : Dec 05, 2011 05:06:31 | Usually ships in 24 hours


12V DC, 120V AC - 120V AC - Continuous Power:750W

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Saturday, November 26, 2011

Marine Electronics

!±8± Marine Electronics

Autopilots - The first self-steering gear was introduced in the 1920's to control model yachts but it was not until 1948 that the principle was applied to full scale yachts. Standing at the helm for lengthy periods, monitoring instruments and keeping a good look out can be very tiring. An autopilot relieves the helmsman from steering the correct course leaving him free to maintain a proper watch. The autopilot can be set to either steer a compass course or a course relative to the wind. A fluxgate compass or electronic wind indicator feeds information to a microprocessor which then makes the necessary rudder movements to return the vessel to it's required course. The mechanical power is applied to the rudder by either electric linear activators, hydraulic pumps or rotary drives. GPS/Chart plotters can be used to input navigational instructions to the autopilot.

Battery Chargers will keep batteries fully charged thereby extending their working life.

Chart Plotters - Typically a chart plotter consists of an antenna, mounted high on the boat, to track GPS signals and a display unit sited either at the at the navigation station or the helm of the vessel. The vessels position is sent from the antenna to the display unit which in turn shows it graphically on the chart. The Chart itself will look similar to it's paper equivalent and show depth, land mass, navigational aids such as bouys and potential dangers in the form of wrecks and obstructions. The user can add way points to the chart and zoom in and out of the display. Chart plotters can be connected to drive an autopilot and/or send GPS data to a fish finder or radar. They can also interface with a laptop enabling complex passage planning to be done away from the boat and then entered into the chart plotter after arriving at the boat.

Magnetic Transmitting Compasses work like traditional compasses using magnets to determine the vessels orientation to the earth's magnetic field they then transmit the boats heading to an electronic display. They make steering easier than with conventional compasses because they display steadier headings and do not suffer from the "lag" that occurs when making a turn. They can interface with chart plotters, autopilots and radar. Fluxgate Compasses consist of two pieces of readily saturated magnetic material with coils wound round them in opposing directions. AC current is passed through the coils and the material is saturated in one direction and then the other. The earth's magnetic field affects slightly the time at which saturation occurs, earlier in one coil and later in the other. The difference is then calculated giving an output proportional to the earth's magnetic field. They are accurate to 0.1 of a degree. Their output can be displayed digitally to the helmsman or they can interface with autopilots, chart plotters and radar.

Echo Sounders work on the same principle as sonar. A transducer emits a narrow beam of high frequency sound. This is reflected by any solid objects and the time between transmission and receipt of the echo is measured. The speed of sound through water is know and so the range or distance to the sea bed can be calculated. That is then displayed in metres. Forward Looking Sonar (FLS) enables you to see the underwater hazards before you're actually on top of them. A typical range for a FLS is 150 metres.

An Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB) is a piece of equipment designed to float free of a vessel in distress. It then sends a radio signal that can be detected by Search and Rescue Satellite Aided Tracking (SARSAT) satellites. They relay a message to a ground station that in turn can instigate a search and rescue operation.

Fish Finders use the same technology as sonar. A narrow beam of high frequency sound is transmitted by a transducer, this is reflected by solid objects such as the sea bed. By developing this technology fishfinders provide displays that show where the fish are and they can differentiate between bait fish and larger species

Global Positioning System (GPS Receivers) - This system was originally designed for military purposes and is owned and operated by the United States Department of Defence. 24 satellites are arranged in a "birdcage" around the globe, they are positioned in such a way that at any place on the earth's surface a direct line of sight can be established to a minimum of 4 satellites. A fix is obtained by measuring accurately the distance between a satellite and the GPS receiver at a precise time. Because the exact position of the satellite is known, these distances provide position lines which are converted by a microprocessor within the GPS receiver to read outs of latitude and longitude.

The log is used to measure the boats speed through the water. A paddle wheel or impeller, mounted below the waterline is turned by the flow of water, this generates electrical impulses that are fed to a microprocessor that displays both speed and distance run.

Inverters - On most boats today you will find domestic equipment of one sort or another. For on board entertainment there are televisions and stereo systems. With the popularity of chart plotters comes the PC or laptop. Maintenance often requires the use of power tools. Liveaboards might have a washing machine, dishwasher or microwave. Can take 12v, 24v or 48v supply and convert it to a stable 110 v or 220v AC supply.

Navtex can perhaps best be described as a continuously updated telex service providing navigation and weather information within specified areas. An on board receiver, tuned to 518kHz, the worldwide Navtex frequency, if left turned on will either print out or display the latest massages sent from a local station. The service is available up to 400 miles from the coast.

Radar enables you to see what otherwise would be invisible. They offer greatest benefit at night and in fog or rain and are of particular value when close to shore or in busy shipping lanes. They consist of an antenna and a display. The antenna sends out a stream of RF energy which is reflected back off hard objects. When this energy is bounced back it is converted to a signal which displayed to the user. The antenna rotates every few seconds, the display continuously calculates the direction of the antenna and so a precise bearing to the target is calculated. The time is measured for the energy to be reflected and so the distance of the target is also displayed.

Satellite Phones consist of an antenna, a modem and a normal handset. They are powered by an iridium battery. Their range is anywhere covered by in Inmarsat Mini-M satellite. Voice, fax, email and data can be transmitted.

Satellite TV requires an antenna and of course a television. Reception is available within a "footprint" which is based on EIRP (Effective Isotropic Radiated Power) of a transmitting satellite. The EUTELSAT together with the two ASTRA satellites cover Europe. NILESAT and the two ARABSATs cover Africa and the Middle East. Good coverage is also available in North, Central and Southern America.

SSB Radio has a range of several thousand miles. You will need an FFC license, or the equivalent in whichever country you plan to operate it. Power consumption is a consideration. Up to 100 Watts may be required for transmission. SSB radio requires several items of equipment. A transceiver capable of SSB operation, An antenna, this must be 8 metres long and in practice most boats use a backstay or shroud for the purpose having fitted the necessary insulators. An antenna tuner matched to the transceiver model. If you want to send email you will also need and radio modem and computer.

VHF Radio The power required to transmit is minimal, all sets have the option of transmitting on either 1 Watt or 25 Watts and the lower power should be used whenever possible. Unlike telephones that allow you to both talk and hear at the same time most VHF sets require you to press a transmit button prior to talking. This is known as simplex. Duplex sets are available but are much more expensive. VHF radio waves travel in straight lines so the aerial should be mounted as high as possible, preferably at the masthead.


Marine Electronics

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Sunday, November 20, 2011

Cobra CPI 1575 1500 Watt 12 Volt DC to 120 Volt AC Power Inverter

!±8±Cobra CPI 1575 1500 Watt 12 Volt DC to 120 Volt AC Power Inverter

Brand : Cobra
Rate :
Price : $96.95
Post Date : Nov 20, 2011 16:16:48
Usually ships in 24 hours



This inverter provides household power on the go. It converts battery power to 120 V AC household power, allowing you to power up office equipment and household appliances from your vehicle. This unit is ideal for such appliances as microwave ovens (1000 watts or less), coffeemakers, laptops, TVs, video game consoles, CD and DVD players, cell phone chargers, and more.

Power equipment and appliances from your vehicle. Click to enlarge.

Great for automobiles, RVs, boats, tractors, trucks, and more. Click to enlarge.

Includes three grounded AC receptacles and 5-volt USB output. Click to enlarge.

How The Cobra Power Inverter Works
The Cobra power inverter is an electronic product that has been designed and built to take low-voltage DC (Direct Current) power from your automobile or other low-voltage power supplies and convert it to standard 115 volt AC (Alternating Current) power like the current you have in your home. This conversion process thereby allows you to use many of your household appliances and electronic products in automobiles, RVs, boats, tractors, trucks, and virtually anywhere else.

Cobra 1500 Watt Output Waveform
Some very sensitive electronic equipment might not operate satisfactorily on "square wave" or "modified sine wave" power. The output waveform of the Cobra Inverter is a "square wave" or "modified sine wave." It is a stepped waveform designed to have characteristics similar to the sine wave shape of utility power. A waveform of this nature is suitable for most AC loads, including linear and switching power suppliers used in electronic equipment, transformers, and motors.

AC receptacles
With three ground AC receptacles, you can connect and power multiple devices at once.

USB Output
The 5-Volt USB output allows charging and operation of modern portable devices, such as iPods, BlackBerrys, and cell phones.

Remote On/Off Switch Capable
An optional Remote On/Off Switch can be connected to the Remote Jack, allowing you to turn the Cobra power inverter on or off from a convenient location when the inverter is installed out of reach.

Safety Features
The CPI 1575 will notify you with a flashing meter and alarm sound when there is a power problem, and will shut down for protection in the following situations:

  • Current Overload Protection--If the inverter is overloaded, it will shut down to protect itself.
  • Short Circuit Protection--If the AC output of the inverter is short-circuited for one second or more, it will shut down to protect itself.
  • Low Voltage Protection--If the input voltage drops to 10.0V or less, the inverter will shut down to protect itself.
  • High Voltage Protection--If the DC input voltage rises above 15.0V, the inverter will shut down to protect itself.
  • Over Temperature Protection--If the internal temperature rises to 40 degrees C (104 degrees F), the inverter will shut down to protect itself.

What's in the Box
CPI 1575 DC to AC Power Inverter, instruction manual

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Monday, November 14, 2011

Boating Direct Blog - Episode #2, "Upgrading Your Boat's Electrical Systems"

Join Tom Doyle, captain of the Celtic Sea, as he walks you through improvements made to his ship's marine electrical system. Featuring the replacement of an electrical cable from shore power plug to AC master panel breaker, as well as the installation of a galvanic isolator. For more information on highlighted products, check out the Boating Direct Marine Store! www.boatingdirect.net Music is "Ocean Shores" by Kelley Vice. www.archive.org

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Monday, October 31, 2011

Marine Solar Panel Installation - A Weekend Project For Your Boat

!±8± Marine Solar Panel Installation - A Weekend Project For Your Boat

If you moor your boat on the hard, on a trailer, or on the water at a marina you may have been confronted with having a dead battery when you turned the key to start the engine. And it always seems to happen when you have perfect boating weather with calm seas. A battery charger comes in pretty handy for times like these as it can keep a floating charge to keep the batteries topped off. With marine solar panels you can avoid these situations as they are a environmentally practical choice to maintain a full charge on your batteries. 

As a rule of thumb, marine batteries dissipate an average of 1% of their charge on a daily basis dependent upon the weather conditions. So in order to maintain a float charge on the battery, a 100-amp battery would require a solar energy system that would be capable of 1 amp/day output.

Since a solar power system is actually rated in watts, to figure output amps, simply divide the wattage rating of the panels by 15. So a typical 5-watt panel would give you a maximum output of .33 amps a day. Because of the fact that the highest rate output occurs when the sun is directly overhead, expect an average rated output of about 5 hours a day. Thus, the 5-watt panel would give approximately 1.65 amp hours (5 x 0.33).

When designing a system for your boat, use 3.5 watts per 100 amp hours of battery capacity taking into account cloudy days as well as running essential systems like bilge pumps if you are in the water. As with normal battery maintenance, check your water level regularly! 

Regardless of the panel size you decide to go with, make absolutely certain that you have a minimum of 33 cells. Fewer than 33 cells will be insufficient to charge the batteries. If cruising in an area where cloudy days seem to outnumber the cloudless ones, you may want to research thinner filmed panels versus the normal crystalline ones as this type deal better with low light conditions.

Mount the panels in an area that will be allow them direct access to the suns rays keeping in mind that as the boat moves (especially on anchor) you want to be able to angle the panels accordingly to maintain contact with the sun. Usually this would be the highest point on the boat like radar arches or rigged to sail masts. I have however seen a number of deck mounted installations but keep in mind that the panels do produce heat so leave room enough under the panels so that the heat can be dissipated.

Wire it all together with marine-graded wire. The positive (+) terminal from the panel will connect to the positive battery post and consequently the negative (­-) terminal from the panel to the negative post on the battery. Although panels with a max output of no more than 1% of the battery power do not require a regulator, I would certainly advise for a regulator as a precaution and give you peace of mind when the boat is unattended. Essential will be an in-line fuse that is close to the battery this would protect against a short and prevent potential fires. If your boat has both a starter and house bank, you can have a solar electrical system that is dedicated for each one wired separately.


Marine Solar Panel Installation - A Weekend Project For Your Boat

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Friday, October 21, 2011

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Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Yacht Power Inverters - A Guide

!±8± Yacht Power Inverters - A Guide

Power inverters

Computers, hi-fi and microwave ovens use considerable power, so if you're considering using them on board you'll probably need power inverters.

An inverter is probably one of the first extras most owners consider buying for their boat, whatever size it is. The ability to use 240V equipment when you are on passage or moored away from a shore supply is prized by most people. At the same time, an inverter is one of the easiest items to install, providing you understand the basic steps involved. Inverters range in size from 50W to 4kW, and can power most items that you now plug into the mains, but you need to understand their limitations, and for that you need to understand what makes them tick.

How they work An inverter takes low-voltage direct current (DC) from batteries, usually 12V or 24V, and converts it to high-voltage alternating current (AC), either 110V, 230V or 240V. The process is the same as your battery charger, except in reverse, and some combi models double as chargers, using the same basic electronics inside. Early inverters used transformers to step the volts up, and were heavy, but most modern models use solid-state electronics, both to step up the voltage and to convert the current from DC to AC, and are correspondingly lighter.

Domestic mains supply voltage follows a sine-wave form with a rounded top as the current alternates. But, while this wave form is easily produced by a rotating generator in a power station, it's more complex and costly to produce electronically and wastes more power. Instead many inverters use a modified sine-wave, or quasi sine-wave, which has a flat topped or square curve. The modified sine-wave powers most AC equipment, but can struggle with some items, particularly electronics with internal power supplies and digital timers like computers, TVs and microwave ovens. Recently the internal power supplies for most electronic equipment have changed to switch-mode systems, which better handle poorer quality incoming AC. At the same time, the standard of the best modified sine-waves has improved markedly, close to that of a pure sine-wave.

Yacht batteries and marine batteries

An inverter can provide high outputs but all this power has to come from your batteries. Short burst high power appliances like a microwave oven, kettle, toaster or hair-dryer are fine, but to run heaters or machines for long, you need a very large battery bank or engine power.

As we have said, virtually anything that you now plug into the mains can be run from an inverter, but the size of your unit governs what it will power. Up to 500W you can run computers, TV, hi-fi, battery chargers for your mobile phone and cameras, and even a 240V domestic fridge, though not always all at the same time.

Up to 1,000W, and you can add a small travel hair-dryer. For most people however the big plus is being able to run a microwave oven and for this you will need at least 1,500W, preferably 1,800W. Don't be confused by the 60OW or 80OW rating on most microwaves. This is the useful cooking power they generate, not the amount of power going in, which will be double this figure.

And at this size, your inverter should also power a standard hair-dryer, plus possibly a kettle, toaster and coffee-maker, though these may require 2kW.

Installing an inverter is within the capabilities of a competent DIY electrician, but if you've any doubts, leave it to a professional. A 2kW, 12V inverter will be drawing up to 200A from your batteries, more than many engine starter motors, so you need large diameter cables, short runs, and good connections. For the higher output models, use 50mm cables (35mm for lower outputs), a maximum of 1.5m long with properly crimped lugs, not screw connectors as they work loose. Anything less and you could lose too much power down the line, which means reduced performance and possibly tripping the inverter. You need proper cable from a battery dealer or automotive electrical supplier. Measure the exact length you want before you buy. They will probably crimp the terminals on for you, but check the diameter of the studs. Most batteries will be 8mm, but the inverter may be l0mm.

If you have to mount the inverter further away, use 70mm cable, or two 35mm cables in parallel for both positive and negative.

Unless a main input fuse is already fitted, you'll have to fit a 250A fuse in the supply line. It's also a good idea to have a separate battery master switch in line, so you can disconnect the unit completely. This must be capable of taking 250A continuous load. Check the size of its terminal studs - they will usually be l0mm.

The DC input terminals on some units were very close together, risking short circuit. If there are no plastic terminal covers, fit your own.

Your battery bank is a major consideration when fitting any but the smallest inverter ...If you take 200A out of a fully-charged 200Ah bank, the voltage at the battery terminals will drop from 12.6V to 11.0V at the inverter. If the bank is only half-charged, the voltage could be down to 10.5V, close to the low voltage tripping point of 10.0-10.5V.

If you're fitting a 21kW inverter, you should have a minimum of 400Ah batteries, preferably 600Ah. For a 1 kw unit, you will need 200Ah, preferably 300Ah.

All these figures assume the engine is not running, which is the usual situation when moored. If you start it up, you will get an input from the alternator, and the battery volts will rise, which will improve the situation, but you should not rely on this.

The condition of your batteries is also important. High continuous current drains will hammer the bank, and quickly find out any weak cells. Gel or AGM batteries will be better able to handle continuous heavy loads.

The 230V output from the inverter will be either one or more sockets on the front, or you may have to hard-wire a cable internally Again, only do this if you are sure of your proficiency. UK three-pin outlets are best fitted sideways or upside down so that large plugs or power-supplies dont foul the base.

Because the inverters have to be close to the batteries, they will usually be mounted in the engine space, or at least away from the galley area. But because most of them have a continuous residual current drain in standby-mode, you don't want to leave them permanently switched on. A remote control panel allows you to turn off the inverter when it's not needed.

Ideally you should fit a change-over switch in the output circuit to switch the incoming AC power between shore supply, generator, and inverter. It's important that you don't have two different power sources feeding into your ring main at the same time. Make sure you get the polarity right when connecting the DC or you could damage the unit

Any piece of electronic equipment will give a high short-term output, but will quickly cut out as it heats up. Best practice is to use the continuous rating to describe the unit. Having said that, the intermittent rating is important, as some pieces of AC equipment, particularly those with motors in them, have a start-up surge that needs a short burst of higher power.

Most power inverters drain a continuous current when switched on, even when you're not using them. This standby current will be at least 2A, sometimes more, which, over 24 hours, it could drain 50Ah or more from the batteries.

This is why a remote control is important. Some models have a powersave mode. This sends the unit to sleep while nothing is connected and wakes it up when it's needed. The drawback to this is that tiny currents, like the timer light on a microwave, will not trigger the unit, so the microwave won't start. Your mobile phone charger will also probably not activate the inverter, so you still need to turn it on manually.


Yacht Power Inverters - A Guide

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